I’m always conscious that when I write a review, it’s a very personal experience that I’m sharing and of course, taste is a very individual thing.
So, I’ve always wondered as to which is the more accurate, the opinion of one professional food critic or the combined opinions of many amateurs. With the advent of the internet, the door had opened for amateurs to share their opinions and I was disappointed with one of the critics I follow, Giles Coren, when he chose to post a diatribe against amateur critics.
Anyway, Tredwell’s advertises its association with 2 Michelin-starred chef Marcus Wareing loudly on its sign. A plaque at the entrance announces that it’s the AA’s London restaurant of the year. However, a well-known amateur restaurant review site only gave them an average 3 out of 5 stars. So, who would be proven right?
The restaurant has dark panelled decor, reminiscent of Wareing’s 2 Michelin restaurant at The Berkeley. It creates quite an austere atmosphere in the dining room, which is meant to be his neighbourhood style restaurant.
First off, the service was friendly but there were 2 major mistakes during our visit. A main course order was taken wrongly. At the end of the meal, despite us asking for the bill to be split, the waiter put the total onto one card.
The menu is French/British inspired with odd nods to more exotic influences. One of these overseas dishes, buttermilk fried chicken was the biggest disappointment. There was no batter on it and definitely wasn’t anything like the southern American buttermilk fried chicken I’ve eaten before.
The other starters were more successful. The chicken liver and foie gras parfait was smooth and deep and it was a novel twist to add amaretti for crunch. The braised oxtail raviolo was tender and could have done with more of the baked potato mousse.
The mains were competently cooked and reminded me of being in a brasserie. Probably my favourite was the slow cooked, smoked beef short rib though it arrived late due to the mistake with the order. It arrived naked with no sides. My second favourite was the side of grilled bone marrow given an extra hit of truffle and parsley. The others had lamb chops with Merguez sausage and poached haddock with chorizo, lentils and smoked almonds.
Tredwell’s is fine as a mid-range restaurant to eat at if you’re in the West End but I tend to agree more with the amateurs than the professional critics in saying that my dining experience was average.
Food: ★★★☆☆ Service: ★★★☆☆ Ambiance: ★★★★☆ VFM: ★★★★☆ Overall: ★★★☆☆
Price: A disappointing visit all round. High bistro prices
4a Upper St Martin’s Lane, Covent Garden, London WC2H 9 NY